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1. Customers who have regular service performed by their dealership realize several benefits. For one thing, the dealers have all the proper tools, parts and training it takes to do the job right; second, the dealers will advise you if there are any open recalls on your vehicle while you're there; last but not least, regular customers are more likely to get financial help with an out-of-warranty repair. Most General Motors dealers are “empowered” to unilaterally make decisions regarding “goodwill” or beyond warranty repairs. Since the amount of goodwill they extend must be justified, and is monitored by their area representative, dealers tend to reserve this privilege for their most loyal customers. BACK
2. Extended service (warranty) contracts are offered by all dealers. What many customers don’t know is that there are as many different extended service (warranty) companies as there are models of cars. The term extended service contract stems from the fact that the contract is a kind of insurance policy and does not extend the factory warranty coverage. As with any insurance policy, price, coverage and customer service will vary. My experience with extended coverage has been that the factory sponsored policies tend to be most comprehensive and customer friendly. I have also experienced after-market extended warranty companies going out-of-business and their clients being left without coverage – but that’s the worst case scenario. More common disappointments with after-market service contracts involve covering only parts that break - not wear out, requiring the use of used parts at there discretion, and inadequate rental car coverage. BACK
3. Factory warranties often cover more items and situations than customers realize. I’ve found many people shocked when they learn that items such as; brakes, light bulbs, tires and batteries (even the ones in the remote transmitters) are covered under the General’s factory warranty. Even changing engine oil, antifreeze, or front end alignment may be covered if performed as part of a warranty repair. Of course there are guidelines - but there is coverage. Don’t be afraid to ask the dealer when you drop off the car. If something’s not covered and you’re not satisfied with their explanation why, read the warranty booklet and/or call customer assistance for clarification. Remember that warranties are intended to address defects in material or workmanship. Obvious signs of abuse, neglect or modifications can compromise your warranty coverage. BACK
4. You probably don’t have to change your oil every 3,000 miles. Consider the advances made in such fields as electronics, tires, and safety devices over the past 25 years. The 3month or 3,000 mile standard has been around for at least that long. Wouldn’t it seem practical that there have also been advancements in the petroleum industry? Of course there have. The motor oil on the shelves today is NOT the same as it was 25 years ago. See your owner’s manual and/or call customer assistance for guidance. Many new vehicles have a maintenance reminder system that will switch on an instrument panel light when service is due.
Note: The 3,000 mile oil change interval is very conservative, but in some cases a reasonable standard. Vehicles operated under extreme conditions will need additional maintenance. There is no danger in changing you motor oil prematurely. BACK
5. Balancing and rotating your tires is one of the best things you can do for your car. Maintaining your tires will extend their wear life and provide you a smoother and quieter ride. In addition, vibration caused by uneven, unbalanced tires can cause other steering and suspension components to wear prematurely. The shaking that you feel in the steering wheel and/or your seat is also shaking the tie rods, steering rack, struts, etc on its way from the tires back to you. Finally, having the wheels off the vehicle allows the technician to inspect the brakes and suspension. Always remind your mechanic to check the air pressure at each oil change. It's up to you to check them between services. Under-inflated tires cause the edges to wear while over-inflation wears the center strip off the tire. Misalignment will usually cause one tire to wear more or differently than the other, or may cause both inside edges or outside edges to wear prematurely. BACK
6. Just because your car has 100,000 mile spark plugs doesn’t mean that it doesn’t need a tune-up. True, spark plugs were the staple of the old-school tune-up, but although they may last 10 times longer than their predecessors, there are still filters, ignition wires and in some cases distributor caps, rotors, etc. that still need to be inspected and replaced PRIOR to the 100,000 mile mark. Injector cleaning has replaced carburetor rebuilding; and throttle bodies, the throat of the engine, require occasional cleaning. A good dealership tune-up should include a computer scan. Manufacturers periodically update the software that's loaded in your car's computer. The dealer's equipment can read which version is in your car and check for any improvements or enhancements. If so they can be easily downloaded. Once again, they should also check for any recalls. BACK
7. Every vehicle has some sort of fuel filter. If the filter begins to clog, the fuel pump has to work harder to provide the required amount of fuel to the engine. This will severely shorten the fuel pump’s life. Compared to a fuel pump replacement, replacing the filter is inexpensive and will also help keep you from getting stuck, at night, in the rain, without a cell phone – if you have my kind of luck. Another item that has passed the test of time is the Air Filter. Some can be challenging to check and/or replace but be sure that you have someone do so. I check my air filter every other oil change. BACK
8. Not all gasoline is the same. Imagine, what the oil companies have been telling you all this time is actually true – to some degree. Octane is a gasoline rating that most people see at their local station. The octane rating relates to how the fuel burns in the engine. A higher octane fuel burns more slowly and therefore more completely. This affords more power in vehicles that are engineered to take advantage of high octane fuel. Unfortunately, or fortunately if you consider the price of Premium fuel lately, most vehicles are designed and calibrated to run their best on 87 octane (regular) gasoline. In such vehicles using high octane fuel will not show an increase worthy of justifying its price difference and may even have an adverse effect on the vehicle’s performance. Don’t waste money – use what’s recommended in the owner’s manual. The most important thing to do is always use a name-brand gasoline. Most manufacturers steer clear of endorsing specific gasoline refiners but you can’t go wrong with a major brand. Major fuel brands are companies that have their own refineries – Mobil, Shell, Amoco, BP, Hess, Sunoco, Getty, Texaco to name a few. There are no 7 Eleven, Walmart or Pigly Wigly oil refineries. Try to avoid buying gasoline at a station that is receiving a fuel delivery at the time. The gas being pumped in stirs up any contaminants that have settled to the bottom. The pumps are filtered but I have heard stories of bad things happening to good people. BACK
9. Brakes make noise. Disc brakes especially are known to creak, squeak, squeal, groan and grunt on occasion. They also create a black powder/dust that accumulates primarily on the front wheels. This is all normal. Disc brakes should NOT pull to one side on dry even pavement, pulsate or grind like two pieces of metal tearing each other apart. If you hear a high-pitched squeal that goes away when you apply the brakes, your brakes are worn. Eventually the squeal will be audible all the time, - now they're worn out. Eventually you'll hear a grinding noise whenever applying the brakes - now it gets expensive. When you first hear the squealing - get the brakes checked. The longer you wait, the more it will cost. Also, most any mechanic will do a brake job. You don't need to go to a "brake expert". It's best to stick with someone you know and trust - just like with a doctor. BACK
10. Bigger is not always better – especially when it comes to wheels and tires. I make it a practice to have the largest wheels and tires on my vehicle that are available from the factory. Going beyond what the vehicle was engineered for is playing with fire. Sure the big chrome wheels with low profile tires look cool, but remember that the tires are the only contact points your several thousand pound vehicle has with our home planet. Cornering, braking, noise and ride are all affected by the size and type of tires/wheels on the vehicle. Another overlooked concern regarding tires is what’s called unsprung weight. Larger tires and wheels usually mean greater weight. This added weight may be more than the springs/shocks can handle.
Here's another concern – the brakes. Added weight puts added strain on the braking system and if your vehicle has ABS, Traction Control, Active Handling, or Stability Control, they are all compromised as well. In bowling, you use a big heavy bowling ball, thrown down an alley to knock down 10 wooden pins. Do you think a tennis ball would be able to accomplish the same? Of course not. It’s the momentum created by the weight of the bowling ball’s mass that knocks the pins down. Trying to stop those big wheels and tires from spinning when you have to stop your vehicle is like trying to stop a bowling ball with a tennis racket. BACK
11. The General offers seat belt extenders in various lengths to help accommodate larger people. This is a safety consideration. Seat belts are still the primary occupant restraint device - air bags are secondary. Many seat belt retractors are designed with a “child seat “feature. By pulling the seat belt all the way out to its stop, the belt will then “ratchet” back until it's snug – like an older car from the seventies. This is designed to pull down a child seat and keep it secure. It works great for car seats but is very uncomfortable for a person sitting in the seat. You can tell if this is occurring if the seat belt seems to constantly tighten-up on you while driving. Also, there will be no free play in the belt. A seatbelt extender will take care of this, but you must request one from the parts department, give them a measurement (available lengths are limited) and they usually have to order them. They usually only come in black, but hey, they're also FREE! Be safe - be comfortable. BACK
12. The general also has a complete program known as GM Mobility that will allow for up to $1000 worth of adaptive equipment to be installed (or re-installed) on any eligible new GM vehicle, purchased or leased. Items such as an additional brake pedal, hand controls, wheelchair lifts are typically eligible under this program. Of course you have to qualify, get a doctor’s note and such, but even the phone call is free. It’s worth asking. Call 800-323-9935. BACK
13. Except for some special provisions under Cadillac’s warranty, the way the general’s courtesy transportation program is set up is pretty consistent.
1. If your vehicle is dropped off for service at a reasonable hour and cannot be completed before the end of the day, you may be entitled to a loaner/rental vehicle to use overnight. Now, a few things to remember: you must be the owner of the vehicle, have insurance, sometimes be over 21, you are responsible for the fuel you use, you must return the vehicle the day your vehicle is ready, and although you dropped off a $60,000 Corvette, you will have to be satisfied with a Cavalier, Cobalt, Malibu, etc. The same is true with trucks.
2. If your vehicle can be completed the same day, most dealers offer a Courtesy Van ride home or to your office if within the usual driving area. They will also pick you up, but, keep in mind that unlike mass transit, they do not usually run on a schedule. They are called when needed and do the best they can to accommodate everyone.
3. OK so maybe you’re already familiar with options 1&2 but did you know that if you qualify but don’t catch the courtesy van and can’t arrange for the courtesy rental, you still have other options? Yes, if a customer is entitled to courtesy transportation they may also be compensated (within limits) for public transportation, taxi fees, even reasonable fuel costs for using a friend or neighbor’s car! Your service manager should know this – if not, read the Customer Assistance chapter of your Owner's Manual, or call the Customer Assistance Center. BACK
Roadside Assistance – it’s not just a towing service.
14. Many owners never utilize the services that are provided to them under the roadside assistance program. Most people know that if the car breaks down it will be towed to the dealership for warranty repairs. But, aside from that, during the bumper to bumper warranty, most general motors owners are entitled to:
- Fuel Delivery: Delivery of enough fuel for the
customer to get to the nearest service station
(approximately $5- Lock-out Service: To ensure security, the
driver must present the vehicle registration
and personal ID before lock-out service
is provided. Lock-out service will be covered
at no charge- Emergency Tow From a Public Roadway or
Highway: Tow to the nearest dealership/
retailer for warranty service or in the event of
a vehicle-disabling accident. Winch-out
assistance when the vehicle is mired in sand,
mud, or snow.- Flat Tire Change: Installation of a spare tire
in good condition, when equipped and
properly inflated, will be covered at no charge.
The customer is responsible for the repair
or replacement of the tire if not covered by a
warrantable failure,- Jump Start: No-start occurrences which
require a battery jump start will be covered at
no charge. BACK15. For over 30 years, manufacturers have been using a Vehicle Identification Number to identify and individualize their products. Each car, truck, van, motorcycle and even mobile home manufactured today is assigned a specific VIN. Although my specialty is GM information, I believe most manufacturers follow a similar system. Since 1981, all VIN’s have contained seventeen characters. Prior to 1981, they were thirteen characters. Older, thirteen digit VIN’s have information arranged differently, but all can be deciphered to determine, make, model, engine, body style and plant.
The VIN is stamped into a special metal tag visible through the windshield, often attached to the dashboard. There are secondary VIN locations, some of which are proprietary to the manufacturer. Usually there is a label in the door jam, and a label in the trunk or on the spare tire cover that also contain the VIN. For several years, GM attached a small silver VIN label to all major body panels of most vehicles. This is no longer a common practice.
Vehicle identification numbers are not random digits assigned solely for identification – like a social security number. They contain specific information about the vehicle they are attached to.
Here’s the breakdown of a current GM VIN:
Digit 1-3 specify where the vehicle was manufactured – globally – 1= US Built
Digits 4&5 specify the series and model – FS = Pontiac Firebird & Convertible
Digit 6 identifies the body style – 1 = 2two door coupe
Digit 7 specifies the type of safety restraint system used – 1= Seat Belts (only)
Digit 8 is the engine code – L = 5.7 liter LS6 V8
Digit 9 is the Check Digit – derived by some computer calculation it validates the VIN
Digit 10 identifies the model year – 2 = 2002 prior to 2001 letters were used 2000=Y
Digit 11 is the Plant code of where the vehicle was manufactured
Digits 12 – 17 make up the production sequence number which is obviously individual to the vehicle. Lower numbers typically indicate being built earlier in the model year. BACKRecalls, Service Bulletins and Special Policies
16. Recalls – There have been tons of recalls, some voluntary, others mandated. In the event of a recall, the manufacturer is committed to notify current owners – for automobile owners they use DMV records – then correct the deficiency at no cost to the owner. With this in mind, if you should be a recall participant at some time, don’t fall for “Well, GM will cover this in the recall, but you also need…” Recalls are free advertising for a dealership – trust me, I’ve sent out thousands of recall reminders, whenever the shop was slow. Ask if the service needed is related to the recall. If so, call customer assistance, tell them what the dealer said, and ask the manufacturer to help pay for the repair. If not, use your best judgment with the dealership.
Service Bulletins – These are documents sent to dealerships to help technicians recognize and correct a condition that has been identified to be common in a particular vehicle. Sometimes, depending on the concern, service bulletins morph into recalls. Not often though, since service bulletins typically address less serious issues than recalls do. The other difference is, if your vehicle is eligible for a recall, it needs it. If there’s a service bulletin on your vehicle, it may never actually experience the condition described in the bulletin, or you may never notice it.
Special Policies – Recalls are publicized, service bulletins are discreet, and special policies are somewhere in between. Occasionally, a manufacturer becomes aware of a chronic condition, usually one that involves high repair expense that they decide to help customers with. For example, if an internal engine part that typically lasts 100,000 miles is identified to be failing at 40,000 to 50,000 miles, the manufacturer may elect to issue guidelines to its dealers for voluntary assistance with the repair. Typically there are age and mileage limits, the vehicle can’t show signs of abuse, neglect, etc. It also helps if the vehicle is brought in by the original owner. Unlike a recall, there may be a co-payment that the owner must pay. So, next time something fails before it typically would, ask your dealer (or customer assistance) if there are any applicable recalls or special policies that may cover the repair. If not, tell them that you feel the part should have lasted longer than it did, you’re the original owner of the car and have been buying their products for many years – they may just help you anyway! P.S. – don’t lie about being the original owner, etc. they can and do check those things. BACK
17. During my career I can recall several complaints from younger GM owners who were very upset that their vehicle would not “peg the speedometer” or that the vehicle would not go over 108 miles per hour.
All were surprised when I would inform them that this condition was probably related to their tires.
Attempting to be a responsible manufacturer, GM engineered the computer that runs the engine to limit the top speed of the vehicle.
Why and how does this make them responsible, you ask?
Well, one of the specifications that tires are rated to is a speed rating. A common tire with and S speed rating is designed to travel up to 112 mph. So to help avoid the unfortunate and sometimes deadly occurrence of a high speed tire failure, GM engineered a governor of sorts that keeps the engine from powering the vehicle over the speed rating of its tires. Aftermarket software can by-pass this feature and on a high performance vehicle, such as Corvette which come with Z rated tires (149 mph+) it becomes a non-issue. Obviously, upgrading the tires changes nothing as far as the computer’s concerned.
There’s a great amount of information stamped or molded into tires but the most important things to know are these: always buy the same size tires, always buy tires with at least the same speed, traction and temperature ratings, check the air pressure and inflate to what the vehicle manufacturer recommends – not what’s stamped on the tire. For maximum comfort and wear you should have your tires rotated every 7500 miles and balanced yearly or whenever you feel a vibration. Here’s a quick breakdown of what all those numbers and letters mean:
P – Passenger Car Tire.
225 - The width of the Tire from sidewall to sidewall in millimeters.
60 – the Aspect Ratio – the relationship of the tire’s height compared to its width – performance tires usually have a lower ratio – the tires are wide and thin.
R – Indicates a Radial ply tire.
16 – is the size of the opening in the center and the matching size wheel.
The Speed Rating is located in one of two places; either before the R as in SR, VR, etc or after the Load Rating code which is also a serious consideration on trucks and SUV’s that are used to carry heavy loads.
So next time you need tires, P225/60SR16 will mean more to you than just being the tire size.
For more information without sales pressure, check out How Stuff Works from the Links page or your Owner’s Manual.
Don’t have one? Sign up at mygmlink (Links page) and access one anytime online! BACK
The Mysterious Check Engine Light
18. All vehicles manufactured with computerized emissions controls are required by law to have an indicator designed to alert the operator of a system malfunction. Hence the Check engine lamp, Malfunction indicator, idiot light, etc. was born.
At the dealership, “Check Engine light on” was one of the most common complaints that we diagnosed. Questions you should prepare to answer included: how long has the light been on, does it flash or stay on continuously, does the car seem to perform properly (ex poor fuel mileage, bucking, hard to start, etc.), have there been any modifications to the car, and last but not least – when did you last purchase fuel?
I have known of a few customers who received bad gasoline but the primary reason for the question refers to the gas cap.
In my experience, one of the most common causes for check engine light illumination on GM vehicles is the improper installation of the gas cap after refueling. Since gasoline fumes are toxic they are a consideration of the vehicle’s emissions control system. The system is monitored to ensure that no fumes are allowed to escape while the engine is running and/or the ignition on.
Therefore, if a driver fills the tank while the engine is running, or more commonly, does not tighten the cap until it clicks (3 times is my suggestion) there’s a good chance the on-board computer will detect an emissions failure and the check engine lamp will come on.
Most GM owner’s manuals recommend checking the gas cap and considering recent driving conditions, specifically if the vehicle had been driven through standing water or in heavy rain. Extreme weather conditions, and extreme operation can contribute to a check engine light coming on; aside from rain, icy conditions, extreme temperatures, and towing can put additional forces on the vehicle’s powertrain and set the light.
So what’s a responsible owner to do?
First check all the obvious things. Is the gas cap tight? I would remove and reinstall it. Check all the fluid levels and tire pressures. A low tire on a vehicle with all wheel drive could trigger the light. Check the fuses.
Beyond that, you need professional help. Some aftermarket parts retailers have diagnosis equipment and will test the computer system for little or no charge.
One more thing you need to know – if the gas cap was loose, one tire nearly flat, etc, the light probably won’t go out immediately. Many “codes” that put the light on are set only after reoccurrence of a failure. Therefore, it takes several “key cycles” (ignition on/off) to clear the code out of the computer and turn the light off. “Soft” codes, like a loose gas cap can usually be cleared by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. If the light comes right back on once the engine starts, it is likely being triggered by a “hard” code which is a more serious failure and will need to be addressed by the dealer or other competent repair facility.
19. There are two major types of engine coolants, or antifreeze, used today. First there is the familiar Green Coolant which had been used for ages and is glycol based. The other option is an Extended life Coolant which has been around since about 1995.
Standard green coolant was intended to be replaced every two years or so and otherwise did a fine job of protecting the cooling system.
Extended life coolant, or Dexcool as GM calls it, was designed to offer the same level of protection but a service life of up to 5 years or 150,000 miles.
Some coolants claim to be compatible with either style but some old school technicians are skeptical. To the best of my knowledge the general has always warned against mixing conventional coolant with extended life coolant just as you’re advised against mixing synthetic motor oil with conventional oil. The result could be a lumpy brown mud that clogs up the whole cooling system.
Notice I haven’t mentioned anything about keeping water from freezing yet?
That’s because offering anti-freeze protection is only one performance aspect of your car’s coolant. The coolant is also responsible for lubricating internal moving parts like the water pump and thermostat, while also keeping the system clean by helping to inhibit corrosion and mineral build-ups.
The next thing to consider is strength. At one time coolant was sold by the gallon and was intended to be mixed 50/50 with clean water. Today, coolants are offered by most parts stores in either full strength or a pre-mixed solution. For topping-off your system pre-mixed is the way to go. Good coolant should provide protection to -30 degrees F. Your vehicle’s cooling system is a “sealed” system. Antifreeze is not a fluid that is intended to be consumed during normal operation. The coolant level should be relatively stable as long as it’s always checked with the engine cold. The level will vary depending on engine temperature since antifreeze expands when hot.
** Never remove a radiator cap while the engine is hot! **
Well, that’s the basics. A question I was often asked was why a car that never leaves a hot climate, like Florida, would ever need antifreeze? Well, the only other practical option is water which is not a good idea. Automotive engines are built with many parts made of steel. When steel is exposed to water you get corrosion – commonly called rust. Not only does rust never sleep, but rust in your cooling system will clog the radiator and heater core while causing the water pump bearings to wear at a rapid rate. Another consideration is that water boils at 212 degrees while the average engine these days has a normal operating temperature around 210 degrees.
So why not focus on coolant’s anti-freezing quality? Because it also raises the boiling point of the water so that the engine doesn’t vaporize it right out of the system.
To summarize, coolant is more than antifreeze – it raises the boiling point as well as lowers the freezing point, lubricates and keeps the cooling system clean. Only use the type of coolant recommended by the manufacturer, check the level once a week, and replace it at the prescribed intervals. Or, ignore the system, and save your money for replacement radiators, water pumps, heater cores, thermostats, head gaskets, etc. By the way, a few GM vehicles come with a blue antifreeze and some imports use a red color. Both are basically glycol based but always check your owner's manual to be sure.
20. Many automotive patrons are unaware that nearly every employee they speak with is working on a commission basis. This revelation seems to answer many questions for people.
Aside from clerical and support staff, sales, service, parts, and body shop employees and managers are dependant on profits for their pay. The quasi-socialist theory is good – everyone works hard for the organization, everyone gets paid well. As with socialism though, the downfall is corruption and greed.
This is what separates good shops from the bad.
I’m sure few would be surprised to hear that that sales people work on commission – that’s why they’re so delightful when you’re looking at a sticker price and slowly morph to a barely tolerant state when you start talking rebates, discounts, incentives and just how much you know your trade-in is worth.
But what you may not realize is that the finance manager who is so non-judgmental, understanding and kind as he or she struggles to secure the best possible financing rate is also being compensated very well by the financial institutions they promote. Few know that the finance rate itself is negotiable. I recently purchased a GMC Acadia. The finance manager assured me he worked out the best possible rate for me at 10.75%. I called my credit union and financed at 6.25%. Over the course of six years, I’ll save over $4000.00. Additionally, all of the add-ons they promote are similarly padded. Paint protectants, tire warranties, window tint, striping, etc are all cash cows for the dealer. The only valuable item, extended warranty coverage, may be regulated by the insurance commission – depending on the state – so it may have a fixed price. But even then, if you want to save a few dollars, you could pass on the extended coverage from your dealer and instead purchase the plan over the internet from a dealer in a state that does discount the policy price. It worked for my doctor, but there is a time frame (I think 6 months) that you have to work with.
So, before going to check out the latest models, I suggest:
- Research how much your trade in is worth ( www.kbb.com www.edmunds.com www.autotrader.com )
- Call your bank, credit union, current finance company, and find out what kind of interest rate is available.
- Research the type of vehicle that will suite your needs within your budget. We visited the New Car Autoshow – kids and all so that we could sit in each and every considered model.
- Check for any and all incentives, rebates and special financing available in your region. ( http://www.gm.com/shop/currentoffers )
- Don’t be swayed by overpriced add-ons. If you want the window tint, stripes, etc, ask the service department who does their custom striping work and then contact them directly.
- It’s always best to shop toward the end of the month since everyone is working on a monthly goal or quota.
One final note – this information is general and likely applies to every dealership in your town. Regardless of manufacturer, domestic or foreign, the automobile industry has operated the same way for many years. Companies that post their best price on the window sticker and refuse to negotiate, will still negotiate interest rates, trade value, etc.
Dealerships Part 2 - Parts and Service
21. As with the sales department, most service, parts and body shop employees are paid for what they produce, not by the hour. The friendly people who take your information and write down your requests and concerns are commonly known as service advisors. Their pay scales and plans vary but most are paid a salary plus commission. The commission is usually based on the amount of customer paid work they have taken in and sold. Repairs covered by warranty are not typically included.
Next, the vehicle is taken back to a technician for the requested service or repairs. Technicians work on a system known as flat rate. Simply stated, each and every service procedure is given a flat rate time (an average time to do the work). The technician is credited that amount of time when the task is completed regardless of how much time he/ she has actually spent. The theory is that a more experienced, better skilled technician will accomplish a task in less time than a lesser technician. Both are expected to accomplish the same goal with the same level of quality, but the superior technician has the opportunity to make more money by beating the allotted flat rate time.
The system works pretty well at keeping people motivated, and accountable, if properly implemented. To help maintain quality standards, any job that has to be re-done is performed at no charge. Therefore, neither the service advisor nor the technician make any money and miss out on opportunities to do so from other customers.
When it comes to warranty work, many people are under a misconception that warranty coverage means the dealership is performing the repairs for free and not making a profit – wrong. When something is covered under warranty, the service and parts departments are making money. Overall, they may make less money on a warranty repair than if the customer were paying, but it’s still good business for the department.
Each parts department sets up a pricing structure or matrix which sets the retail prices for a particular item. Small, inexpensive items are usually marked up more than larger items. Prices also inversely correlate to the supply and demand rule of business. The more popular an item is, the more competitive the price will be. Odd items that typically don’t need replacement (like interior trim pieces) must be special ordered and are disproportionately expensive.
Courtesy transportation is a provision of the warranty. See courtesy transportation on the Tips page for more information. By the way, the service department also gets reimbursed for every shuttle ride, rental car, etc as long as the vehicle is under warranty and a warranty repair is performed. So if you are told that they need to keep your vehicle overnight to complete a warranty repair, ask for a rental car – you’re entitled to it.
Handling Major Repairs - Part 1
22. It is said that the sales department sells the first car but the service department sells every subsequent car. If you like the salesman and the product, you’ll buy the car, but if you get exceptional service after the sale, you’ll come back to possibly buy again.
That said, the service department is committed to a customer satisfaction index (CSI) as well as profit margins. As with sales, prices quoted in the service and parts department are flexible and dynamic. Dynamic in a sense that a door handle for a Cadillac will cost more than a door handle for a Chevrolet, and suggested parts prices are update from GM on a weekly basis. Unlike a new car that has a window sticker displaying the suggested retail price that stays there until the car’s sold, a part at one dealership will not necessarily cost the same as at another dealership – and this is what makes the pricing flexible. Dealerships are independently owned and operated and create their own pricing structure. Just as when buying gasoline, you can shop around for new parts. But, like comparing gas prices, it’s up to you to decide whether it’s justified to drive all over town for the amount that you may save.
Just as when buying a car, if you’re buying an expensive part or service, ask if that’s the best price they can offer you. Ask if there are any discounts available for repeat customers, customers who bought the car there, senior citizens, members of the local car club, etc. Don’t expect them to just offer discounts since, as we said last week, everyone works on commission.
Another avenue available when faced with an expensive repair is contacting the manufacturer. If you have a good case, they will likely offer help. Manufacturers spend millions of dollars on advertising to get new customers – a few hundred dollars to keep a customer is a worthy investment.
Here are some points (as they apply) that you want to be sure to include in your conversation with customer assistance: (be sure to have your VIN handy before calling)
- You purchased the car/ truck new or certified used from one of their dealers.
- You have purchased their products before and would like to again in the future.
- You maintain the vehicle well and have all the maintenance records and/ or they can be confirmed by the dealership.
- You understand that you’re out of warranty but… (this is where you need a business case such as: I never had a car with a failure like this before; The cost seems excessive; I was told that this is a common failure; I maintain the car well and don’t feel I am responsible for this.) …so I think you should help me with the repair expense.
- Be reasonable in your request. They may ask you to bring it back for further testing or to a different dealer for a second opinion. They don’t know you, cant see the vehicle but have to substantiate any goodwill gestures. If they don’t feel they can do that they will simply tell you so.
- Gratitude is always appreciated. If the manufacturer agrees to help that often means the repair becomes a warranty claim with you making a co-payment. The service advisor, parts department and technician all make less commission on the repair than if you were paying the whole bill. Remember to thank them for helping you - you may to ask for help again someday.
Handling Major Repairs - Part 2
23. Now, if your not the vehicle’s original owner, didn’t buy the car from the dealer, it has over 100,000 miles, you didn’t get an extended warranty policy, and your idea of maintenance is changing the oil on rainy days when there’s nothing better to do, here are some other options you may consider when faced with a major repair.
- Ask about using after-market (different manufacturer’s) parts. They wont carry the same warranty coverage as the factory parts but if the work has to be done and you don’t have the money, it’s a viable option since parts are often more costly than labor.
- Depending on what failed, used parts are sometimes available and reliable. Salvage yards have come a long way since I was a kid rummaging around at the old car graveyard. Many places now inspect, clean and test their parts before selling them, and offer a warranty. I would never suggest buying used air conditioning, transmission or internal engine parts, but items like windows, door hinges, wheels and such are pretty safe bets.
- Last but not least, shop around. Depending on the repairs needed, a specialty shop can be cheaper than a general repair facility – dealer or independent. For example, a torn seat can be repaired with a new seat cover for $500 or an auto upholstery shop may be able to sew in a new section for half the price. Transmission shops, tire stores, car stereo shops – are all geared toward that one specific type of repair; therefore, they can often do the work cheaper and pass the savings on to the consumer.
- Ask your service advisor, mechanic, etc if there’s any way to reduce the cost. This goes back to the basic concept of having a repair facility that you trust.
24. “I’ve locked my keys in the car…” is the typical distress call advertised to promote the advantage of having OnStar service in your vehicle. Although this is likely the most common service provided, there are many others that do not get as much publicity.
First, a quick summary of how it works; OnStar uses a Global Positioning System or GPS in addition to cellular phone service to keep in touch with you and your vehicle. It is also tapped into the vehicle’s electrical system for power, information and to perform some specific actions. The GPS uses satellites to locate your vehicle within just a few feet of its actual position.
One of my favorite features is the vehicle alert that is of particular value to those who lose our vehicles in parking lots. OnStar will beep the horn and flash the lights for several minutes.
Other valuable features include stolen vehicle tracking. By using the GPS signal, OnStar can lead police to your vehicle’s location if it were ever stolen.
There is also an on-board diagnostics feature. If the Service Engine lamp should come on, calling OnStar can offer some reassurance as to whether there is a serious issue of just a loose gas cap triggering the light.
In case of tragedy, OnStar will call the center and notified them if your vehicle’s air bags deploy.
There is also an emergency (panic) button that provides a link to emergency services.
Of course it also offers hands-free cellular phone service which can be used to call for roadside assistance – providing you’re not calling for help with a dead battery.
Which is one of OnStar’s few weaknesses. It relies on the vehicle to provide it with electricity. It also requires a cellular coverage area and a view of the sky to communicate with the satellites. Tunnels and mountains are not OnStar friendly and OnStar cannot be added to a vehicle - it must be factory installed.
All of these features are typically included with your new OnStar equipped vehicle – of course additional features are available for additional fees.
Is it worth the money? Well, at one time seat belts were optional and many believed they weren’t worth the money…
Get more info at www.gmonstar.com BACK
Conversion Vans – Two manufacturers/ two warranties
25. The “concern” I’ve always had with conversion vans (and by the way, there are other conversion trucks) is the fact that you have two manufacturers involved with building one vehicle, and that can lead to repair and warranty issues.
The vehicle manufacturer Chevrolet, GMC, etc., builds the van and sells it to the conversion company. The van purchased by the conversion company (or upfitter), is typically equipped with a dashboard and a driver’s seat, like a delivery truck. The conversion company then installs the fancy seats, seat belts, carpet, interior panels, insulation (maybe), lighting, electronics, rear heat, air conditioning, and additional wiring harnesses and fuse panels to power it all. To the exterior, they apply the paint, graphics, fender flares, wheels, tires, running boards, etc, and in some cases, the roof extension. “High top” vans are not built that way at the factory but have the original roof cut off and a new roof installed. The roof and any added windows can have a dramatic effect on a vehicle’s comfort, ride and handling characteristics. The conversion company customizes the vehicle to meet their specifications. The additional weight and power requirements impose additional strain that may exceed the manufacturer’s specifications.
So, here’s where the problem comes in. The vehicle manufacturer will warranty their product, or portion that they built, for the prescribed warranty term. You may have read in your warranty booklet that the warranty may be voided by evidence of neglect, abuse or modification… but let’s not even go there. The conversion company is responsible for everything else. What else? For how long? These are good questions to ask before buying the vehicle!
At purchase, customers may be told that the vehicle is covered under warranty for 3 years/ 36,000 miles. While this is usually true, they're not always advised that there are actually two separate warranties in effect. Most conversion companies will match the manufacturer’s warranty term but do not offer such amenities as Roadside Assistance or Courtesy Transportation. Needed replacement parts are usually mailed from the conversion factory and may cause the customer to be without the vehicle for extended periods. Down time is further accentuated by the fact that conversion companies often fail to print repair manuals to assist technicians in the proper diagnosis and repair of their systems.
GM is not affiliated with any of these companies and General Motors does not warrant any upfitter installed parts. In the event of conversion related concerns, the best you can do is work with the selling dealership since they have a working relationship with the conversion company.
NOTE: Upfitters have also been known to customize such vehicles as Suburbans, Yukons, Silverados, and Sierras. The “upgrade” package is typically less dramatic but may include leather seating surfaces, custom dash and other trim appointments, entertainment systems, wheels/ tires, running boards and graphics.
The moral of the story is, before buying a conversion vehicle; know what you’re getting into. Check out the conversion company (upfitter) online, ask how long the dealer has been working with them, ask about what happens if the vehicle has a problem while you’re out of town, or if you move. Will you have to pay for repairs and then try to get reimbursed by the company? If you buy and extended warranty policy, will they cover conversion related failures? Weigh your options carefully before committing. They look great, but bring along their own baggage. BACK
The Truth About Fuel Economy Ratings
26. EPA Mileage vs Actual Mileage
In 1980, I became the proud recipient of a New York State driver’s license. After learning how to drive, park and make u-turns. I learned how to wait on line to buy gasoline. With the prospect of gasoline prices reaching $4 per gallon, today just as back then, fuel economy is a primary factor when considering a new car purchase.
Very often people complain that their vehicle will not get the miles per gallon numbers that the manufacturer printed on the window sticker. If you’re included in this group, or are considering a new purchase, you need to know how this system really works.
First, the mileage statistics on the window sticker are not calculated by the manufacturer. The tests are actually performed by the Environmental Protection Agency.
Second, in order to keep the tests fair and accurate, each vehicle is tested under controlled conditions.
A vehicle driven on a hot street in Florida will perform differently than if it were on a snow covered road in Alaska. Standardized testing removes these types of variables and while it doesn’t mimic real-world driving, it levels the playing field. Vehicles are tested in a climate controlled building while running on a treadmill-like device at specific speeds for specific times to simulate city and highway driving. While the driving conditions are not realistic, the results of the test are a realistic account of what the vehicle can deliver. More important, it provides an accurate comparison of one vehicle to another.
So, use those EPA figures as a comparison not a performance guaranty. While a car that’s rated to get 28 mpg may not deliver that, it should certainly perform better than a car rated at 22 mpg. Weather conditions, elevation, vehicle loading, traffic conditions and driving styles play the greatest role in influencing gas mileage – all of which are negated by the EPA’s test procedures.
For more information, visit http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ where you can get EPA ratings for vehicles from 1985 to 2008! You can also print a fuel economy guide and read more about the testing procedures.
Or, check out our blog posting
http://mygmconnection.blogspot.com/ BACK
27. Antilock braking systems offer the advantage of keeping the driver in control of the vehicle under moderate to hard braking and while on low traction surfaces. They do not necessarily provide a shorter stopping distance, but instead allow for a controlled stop instead of an uncontrolled skid. As anyone who has driven on a snow or ice covered road (in a car not equipped with ABS) will attest, once the tires start to slide, turning the wheels has little to no effect.
How an ABS system works involves a tremendous amount of electronics and engineering. In layman’s terms, the heart of the system is a controller that regulates how much pressure is applied to each wheel when you step on the brake pedal. There is a speed sensor attached to each wheel that constantly feeds information back to the controller. When braking, if one of those sensors goes to zero, that indicates the tire is skidding (or locked). At that point the controller activates a valve that releases the pressure from that wheel. Once the wheel unlocks and again sends back a speed reading, the controller reapplies the brake pressure. It’s a lot like the old “pump the brakes” process except much more efficient and effective. The controller can cycle the pressure on and off ten to fifteen times per second and only on the wheels that are locked so that the wheels with good traction can continue working to stop the vehicle.
If you have ever experienced an ABS assisted stop you likely heard a buzzing/ fluttering noise from under the hood and felt a vibration in the brake pedal. When starting the vehicle, the ABS light may flash for three seconds and you may a buzzing noise from under the hood as it goes through a self-diagnostic test. Both conditions are completely normal. If the light stays on or continuously flashes, have the system checked ASAP. The hydraulic portion of the braking system may be working properly, but you jeopardize getting yourself into a difficult situation that may require ABS, and while the light is on, the system is typically inactivated
ABS systems require little maintenance; check your owner’s manual for recommended service intervals. What does require diligence is the condition of you tires. Even with ABS, your vehicle can only stop as well as it is connected to the road. If your tires are mismatched, or low on air, the antilock system will not be able to function properly. If you have a small space-saver spare and have occasion to drive with it on the vehicle, the ABS lamp will probably come on since the smaller tire will be spinning much faster than the three normal size tires and therefore confuse the controller. Check the owner’s manual before scheduling a service appointment.
Anti-lock brakes are a valuable safety feature worthy of the additional cost, if any, when purchasing a new vehicle. As an added feature, opting for ABS may include a Traction Control System or TCS. We’ll discuss that system next week.
28. Vehicles equipped with Antilock Brakes often have the added feature of traction control. The traction control system operates from the antilock brake control module, utilizing the wheel speed sensor signals and other components. It also works with the powertrain control module and, if equipped, the transmission control module.
The intent of traction control is the exact opposite of antilock braking. Whereas antilock brakes assist in offering controlled braking under low traction conditions, traction control helps the driver experience controlled acceleration in low traction conditions. It is not designed to keep a vehicle from spinning or skidding on a turn – that’s a different system.
While accelerating, if the wheel speed sensors indicate that one wheel is spinning faster than the others, the control module recognizes that traction was lost by that wheel. At this point there are various actions that can be taken. Typically, the control unit will first reduce engine power. If the condition persists it may then command the transmission to shift to a higher gear, or apply brake pressure to the wheel that has lost traction. The result of braking the wheel is that power will then be diverted to the opposite wheel through the compensating gears in the differential.
Tests have proven that under low traction conditions, a traction control system consistently allows for a vehicle to accelerate quicker. This is a valuable safety feature; just ask anyone who has had to merge onto or cross a major road under snowy, icy, or otherwise hazardous conditions. One consequence of traction control is that it works very discretely with little feedback of its operation to the driver. Therefore, to ensure the driver’s awareness of the potentially hazardous driving condition, a “low traction” indicator lamp is usually incorporated into the instrument panel. Remember that this light does not indicate a problem with the system, but instead shows that it’s working.
There are occasions when traction control can work against you. Most notably, when the vehicle is stuck in snow, sand, etc., traction control will prevent the driver from “rocking the car” to get it in motion and out of the situation. To help with this, all systems have an override switch somewhere on the dashboard. They are typically labeled T/C Off or something similar. Unless stuck, always leave the system on (active) while driving. Also, since the antilock brakes and traction control systems work together, a failure in in one system will often affect the other. Address any ABS or T/C system problem immediately – your safety is at stake. Consult your owner’s manual for more specific information, and locations of the indicators and the override switch.
Vehicle Stability Enhancement Systems
29. General Motors has developed various versions of vehicle stability enhancement systems. Most commonly, the systems are marketed as StabiliTrak and Active Handling. A stability enhancement system automatically assists when the vehicle senses loss of control during acceleration, braking, or turning maneuvers. The system responds by comparing how much the driver is turning the steering wheel with how well the vehicle is responding. To improve control the system precisely applies force to the appropriate brake to slow the vehicle and help bring it back to the driver's intended path. Applying the proper brake force at just the right time helps steer the car as you may steer a canoe by dragging an oar in the water.
Like traction control, the system is dependent on several components of the antilock braking system. In addition to gathering information from wheel speed sensors and the powertrain control module, the system monitors steering wheel position and yaw. Yaw is a measurement of the vehicle’s rotation around its center point.
The system is complex, expensive and very effective. In tests, average drivers on a closed track were able to attain better lap times with active handling than without it. More important than lap times, stability enhancement systems help keep vehicles from swerving, spinning and skidding off the road under low traction conditions.
For information on all three systems see http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/before/stabilitrak/
All Wheel Drive/ Four Wheel Drive
30. While most vehicles are either pushed by rear wheel drive or pulled by front wheel drive, the ideal situation is to have all four wheels propelling the vehicle. This is the rational behind four wheel and all wheel drive. Both systems provide for power displacement to all four wheels. This is usually accomplished by using a large mechanical device known as a transfer case. The transfer case is located just after the transmission and acts like a splitter. Power from the engine is delivered and is then split into two outputs – one sending power to the front wheels and the other to the rear.
Four wheel drive (4WD) is a term and a system commonly related to heavy-duty, off-road applications which include vehicles that pull heavy loads or tackle tough terrain. True four wheel drive has a separate control mechanism for the transfer case; it can be shifted from two to four wheel drive, may have a ‘Low” range and often have a neutral position.
All wheel drive (AWD) is a term and a system most often used with light duty applications where the goal is to improve on-road traction and stability. Examples of these systems are Versatrac and offered in light duty SUV’s. This system is always active. The operator has no control over the system. Some systems use a transfer case while others utilize a modified transaxle and a fluid driven rear drive unit.
Regardless of the system, the performance advantage is undeniable. By having additional pathways of getting the engine’s power to the ground, cars and SUV’s are more stable on the road, while full-size trucks are able to traverse dirt, mud and snow that would swallow a two wheel drive vehicle up to the bumpers.
But, as with anything, there’s a cost. Additional driveline components means increased weight; more moving parts cause additional vibration and noise while providing more things to go wrong. Last, splitting the engine power and sending it in two directions requires power to accomplish. This means less power is available to each of the four wheels, and a proportional decrease in fuel economy as well.
31. The dictionary describes it as “the offspring of two animals or plants of different breeds, varieties, species, or genera” Ironically, I’ve never heard of a hybrid Impala, Mustang or even a Beetle.
For our purpose a hybrid is any means of transportation that incorporates at least two different sources of propulsion. A Moped is a hybrid. The most popular automotive system is the combination of an internal combustion engine that burns gasoline or diesel fuel, combined with an electric motor. A machine that burns fossil fuel is an engine, but if it runs on electricity it’s known as a motor. Your vehicle has one engine but many motors. For example, the starter motor, wiper motor, power window motor, etc run on electricity not fuel.
This leads to the logical conclusion that hybrids require at least two fuel sources. A hybrid vehicle has both a fuel tank (for storing gasoline, diesel or hydrogen) and a collection of batteries. An on-board computer decides which source of power is appropriate for the given driving conditions.
Typically, the electric motor provides primary power during stop-and-go, low speed, city driving. It can also be recruited to “help” the engine while accelerating or hill climbing. The internal combustion engine is used for assisting the electric motor during high power demands and primarily for high speed operation.
The batteries are recharged by systems on the vehicle so that it never has to be plugged-in like a purely electric vehicle. In most cases, the electric motor, when not being used to power the vehicle, doubles as a generator. It is also used to start the engine so the need for a separate starter motor is eliminated.
To learn more about the different hybrid systems, where the various parts are located, and how they work together, check out the links below. How stuff works has been a favorite of mine for many years. BACK
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hybrid-car1.htm
http://www.chevrolet.com/hybrid/
32. The air bag system is one of the greatest safety features since the seat belt. Also known as a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR), air bag systems have been improved upon and evolved over the years. It’s a very complicated system based on physics and mathematical equations that the average driver simply does not need to know. As always, I’ll try to offer a simplified overview of the system.
First, there is a computer, or control unit often known as an SIR Module, or DERM (diagnostic energy reserve module). It monitors and controls the system. Next there are the impact sensors. Depending on the system there may be as few as one incorporated into the DERM, or there may be many to detect either frontal or side impact. Then there are the air bags themselves – again, there may be only one mounted in the center of the steering wheel, or many, located strategically throughout the cabin.
To oversimplify, when there is a direct frontal or side collision severe enough to trigger the sensors, a signal is sent to the control module which then deploys the appropriate air bag(s). Air bag systems are designed specific to a vehicle model and are tuned to deploy only when a specific threshold is met. Deployment during a light impact may cause more damage than good. The control module also has an electrical reserve feature that retains enough power to deploy the air bags even if most of the vehicle’s electrical system is destroyed in the collision.
There’s a loud bang, powder fills the vehicle, everyone’s safe – maybe. Remember that the first “S” in SIR and SRS stands for supplemental. The primary restraint in every vehicle is the safety belt which is also relied upon to keep you safely aligned with the secondary restraint – the airbag.
A motor vehicle accident, or collision event as air bag people call it, takes place in approximately three tenths of a second. That’s about as fast as you can blink. Since things happen so quickly, the air bag system must remain on constant alert and actually anticipate a possible collision. To accomplish this, the air bag control module has to monitor more than just its own components.
Conspiracy theorists are aghast at the fact that there is a “black box” in their vehicle that is recording how fast they’re driving and if they have their seat belt on. But, as usual, this is only half true. The module does monitor seat belt latching, vehicle speed, brake application, amount of throttle application and various others items depending on the system. What it doesn’t do is record and store this information constantly. Most systems have the ability to retain five seconds of data. The reason for this was to help engineers build a better air bag system. Since simulated collisions can never precisely duplicate the real world, the crash data has been a valuable tool in recreating collision events that would never have been dreamt of. A secondary purpose is to help defend the company in case of a lawsuit.
It’s not uncommon for accident victims to either complain that the air bags deployed needlessly or didn’t deploy when needed. The truth is that unless you’re an engineer with the crash data in front of you, it is unreasonable to draw such a conclusion. A high speed collision with another object that is also traveling at high speed in the same direction has less chance of being a deployment event than a low speed collision with an unyielding object.
About accidental deployments, I’ve heard of side air bags deploying after someone slammed a door really hard, but never heard of a steering wheel module deploying after someone punched the steering wheel. Since the sensors for that airbag are under the console and/or under the hood, we’ll chalk that one up to Hollywood.
Visit these sites for more info on air bag facts and fiction.
http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/during/airbags/
http://www.howstuffworks.com/airbag.htm BACK
Facts everyone should know about Engine Oil
33. Most owner’s manuals will recommend that the engine oil be checked at each gas fill-up. If your vehicle has over 100,000 miles you may need to check it more often. Similarly, a fairly new vehicle could run the entire oil change interval without using any oil. Of course leaking oil is another story. I check my engine oil tire pressures and various other fluids and lights once a month.
Owner’s manuals always have an illustration of where the dipstick is and what the indicators on the stick refer to. As a rule of thumb, it’s best to check the oil level on a warm engine after it has been off for a few minutes. Some engines can require up to 20 minutes for all the oil that has been pumped up to the top of the engine to drain all the way back down to the oil pan. Next locate and remove the dipstick, don’t bother trying to read it yet, just wipe it with a clean rag and push it back into the dipstick tube. Now pull it back out and read the oil level. The reason for the duplicity is due to the fact that oil splashes around inside the engine all the time. The initial reading would have measured the splash level not the actual reserve level. It’s usually pretty easy to see the level indicated on the stick and most dipsticks have hash marks, like a bunch of x’s, to show the normal operating range. Others may have notches cut out of the edge to indicate the low and high range of the scale.
Years ago most cars used a 10W/40 motor oil. Today there is 5W/20 and I’ve even seen a 0W/20. What these numbers indicate is the viscosity of the oil. Viscosity is a resistance to flow and it’s measured by timing how long it takes for a specific quantity of oil to flow through a fixed opening (like sand in an hour glass). The thicker it is, the higher the viscosity. Honey may have a viscosity of about 80 where water is probably about 5. The fact that there are two viscosities in 5W/30 oil indicates a multi-grade oil. This means that when the engine is cold, such as in the winter, the oil will act like a 5 weight oil allowing the engine to turn over easily and warm up quickly. When the temperatures increase, the oil is designed to perform like a 30 weight oil. It will sustain the heat and strain, keeping everything lubricated and cool. Do not mix oil grades! It’s OK to mix brands, but always use the same grade engine oil if you have to add.
Most engine oil is petroleum based but there are synthetic oils that have been developed to offer better protection than conventional. If your vehicle requires synthetic oil – use it. If not, then it’s up to you to decide if the additional cost is worth the benefit.
Do not mix synthetic oil with conventional, petroleum based oil.
The engine oil has three responsibilities, lubricating, cleaning and cooling the engine. Engine oil starts out a clear golden color – not unlike honey. By the time it’s due to be changed it may be dark brown or even black. This does not indicate a problem. The color change is a result of the detergent in the oil removing carbon from inside the engine. Hard working engines, like diesels and small 4 cylinder models tend to accumulate more carbon and dirty the oil quicker.
As in the case of gasoline, there are many different manufacturers of engine oil. Some have more detergents, claim to be more heat tolerant or have better adhesion. Regardless of the type of oil you use, always verify that it has approval from the API or Automotive Petroleum Institute by checking for a starburst symbol on the bottle.
For more info try http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9012820&contentId=6004767
34. With today’s absurd gasoline prices, it’s more important than ever to know what kind of fuel mileage your vehicle is getting. I’ve had people tell me that they intend to sell their truck and buy a car to save on gas. Funny thing is that when I ask what kind of mileage they’re getting on the truck, they never seem to know.
Here’s how you calculate your vehicle’s fuel mielage:
- Fill your tank at the usual gas station using a medium fill rate – set the handle if you can, or else hold it so that the pump is not running as fast or as slow as it can. Once it stops, don’t try to top off the tank.
- Get a receipt.
- Write the pump number and your current mileage on back of the receipt. Cross through the number of gallons of gas purchased (not important), and store it safely in the glove compartment.
- Drive until you use at least half of the tank.
- Visit the same gas station.
- Remove the receipt from the glove box and refill the tank at the same pump number, using the same moderate fill rate.
- Write down your current mileage.
- When the tank is full, get another receipt.
- Subtract one mileage figure from the other to determine how many miles you’ve driven. Then divide that number by the number of gallons of gas you bought on the second receipt.
The result is your miles per gallon rating. Typically after using a half tank of gas, you’ll probably have driven about 150 miles. Depending on your vehicle and driving habits, you may have purchased from 5 to 10 gallons of gas giving you from 15 to 30 mpg.
Do the math before you consider changing vehicles to reduce your gas bill. If you trade a vehicle that’s worth less than you owe, you will have to save many gallons of gas just to break even. If the replacement vehicle is uncomfortable or doesn’t fit your needs, you may not be better off.
If you're thinking of tackling your own oil changes, check this out for some insight
Save Money – Try using Regular Unleaded
35. If you drive a GM vehicle that recommends using Premium Grade fuel, you definitely want to check your owner’s manual. It may just say something like this:
If your vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code W), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine.
This is a quote from the 2008 Corvette owner’s manual. If any car were to “require” premium fuel, it would certainly be GM’s performance flagship. In all fairness, on the Z06 7.0 liter optional engine, it suggests using regular grade only in an “emergency.”
Years ago, my GM service representative put it to me this way; certain GM models carry performance expectations. It order for those vehicles to achieve those expectations they require Premium fuel to get the very last bit of horsepower to the ground.
So, unless you regularly run flat-out on the Autobahn, check your owner’s manual and see if you can save .20 - .40 per gallon on gasoline. BACK
36. With summer on its way, many families will be taking to the road for the fun-filled road trip often known as the family vacation. Even with the obscene price of gasoline, it’s still cheaper to drive five people than to fly. If you too are considering a driving vacation to another state, here are a few items to consider.
Highway driving subjects your vehicle to different conditions than city driving. Although it’s fairly straight and steady, everything on the vehicle is operating at a higher speed. The most immediate items are your tires. I always have my tires rotated and balanced before vacation. An out of balance tire may not be noticeable around town but will cause an annoying vibration at highway speeds. Here are a few additional items to consider:
• Tires: Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure – including the Spare? If you bought the vehicle used, make sure that there IS a spare – and a jack, etc.
• Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Can you deal with that little shuttering/ squeaking thing they do for hours on end?
• Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Clean windows help reduce eye strain.
• Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? If you can’t find the transmission fluid dipstick, ask for help – don’t assume it’s full.
• Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Ask someone to look behind the vehicle or back into your driveway and check for the taillights reflecting off the garage door.
• Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook along your route? I usually use www.weather.com or the AAA site.
• Maps/ Navigation: Do you have up-to-date maps and/ or a current OnStar subscription?
Before leaving town it’s probably best to have the vehicle serviced and tell them that you’re planning a long trip. You may want to remind them to check the air in the spare tire, the condition of the battery terminals, and all the lights.
Remember to bring an umbrella, a flashlight with new batteries, your cell phone charger, jumper cables and a can of fix-a-flat – just in case. A mini first-aid kit, bottled water and chewable Tylenol also come in handy.
Before you guiltlessly buy a Toyota, Nissan or Honda that was built in America, please consider these facts:
· The domestic parts content for GM vehicles sold in North America averages 82%, while Toyota's is less than 41%.
· Every day, about one million North Americans earn their living by helping GM build and sell cars in North America.
· The domestic manufacturers employ almost 90 percent of all American autoworkers with about 470,000 direct employees in the U.S.; nearly 10 times as many as the Japanese transplants, who employ 49,000.
· Members of the United Auto Workers staff GM assembly plants. Toyota's plants are non-union.
· Combined, GM, Chrysler and Ford spend more than $16 billion on research and development each year; more than any other industry.
· Profits earned by GM in North America stay here. Toyota's profits go to Japan.
Back in the eighties and early nineties, I was a foreign car advocate. They were less expensive and more dependable. Since then, American vehicles have come a long way and are safer, more comfortable, as dependable and durable as any foreign vehicle. Foreign vehicles, on the other hand, have become more expensive yet have kept the cheap look and feel that they always had. If they were as trouble-free as some like to believe, they wouldn’t have to offer such elaborate warranties.
I worked at several foreign new car dealers and they all have one thing in common – a service and repair department.
You can help keep fellow Americans employed, both assemblers and suppliers, by buying an American vehicle.
On GM vehicles, batteries are covered in 3 ways:
1. The original equipment battery is covered under the terms of the new vehicle, bumper to bumper warranty.
2. If that battery is replaced under warranty, the replacement battery is covered for the remainder of the new vehicle warranty; or 12months/12,000 miles – whichever is greater.
3. When you purchase an AC Delco battery, the AC Delco Warranty Program covers it. AC Delco offers 18 or 24 month free replacement coverage followed by a pro-ration period – diagnosis and labor to replace the battery is not covered.
Refer to AC Delco (800-223-3526) or www.acdelco.com/ for details.
If the battery develops an acid leak, this is something that AC Delco will consider helping with even if it’s beyond the normal warranty period. A leaking battery often causes consequential damage. The battery cables, battery tray, even air conditioning lines and wiring harnesses may be damaged by the acid dripping on them.
If you’re stuck and have to get the vehicle repaired at an independent repair facility, be sure to get an itemized receipt with a good description of what was damaged and replaced. Ask them to save the old parts and seal them in a plastic bag as evidence for your local dealer to see. You probably wont want the leaky battery back so be sure the repair shop notes the receipt with the AC Delco identification number and/or take a photo of it.
If the battery was the original with the vehicle, call customer assistance. If the battery was an AC Delco replacement, contact them instead.
Remember that if the vehicle is still under the bumper t bumper warranty you should be entitled to courtesy transportation. AC Delco's warranty does not provide any such benefits.
Save Gas with Nitrogen Filled Tires?
I bought a red Pontiac G6 that came with bright green tire valve caps. The green valve caps are used to indicate that a vehicle’s tires are filled with Nitrogen as opposed to compressed air.
Companies that sell and promote Nitrogen systems note several benefits to filling your tires with Nitrogen. Among them are:
1.Nitrogen is a larger molecule than air so there is less seepage or incremental loss of pressure over time;
2.Nitrogen helps keep the tire cooler; and
3.Nitrogen does not expand and over-inflate the tires as compressed air does after driving a few miles.
All of these facts are true and will help extend the life of your tires. After all, race cars, commercial airliners and over-the-road trucks have been using it for years. But, will Nitrogen keep you from getting a flat or help prevent sliding, spinning or skidding? Not likely. By keeping the tire pressure more consistent, it can be argued that ride, handling and fuel economy may be improved, but whether you will actually feel a difference or not is debatable.
Most facilities that offer Nitrogen tire service have equipment that manufactures the gas on site and install it – I have not seen any Nitrogen conversion kits for sale at local auto parts stores. The cost of the service varies, and depending on the age and condition of your tires, may not be cost effective. I've seen pricing from $2 to $10 per tire.
The best time to go Nitro would be when replacing tires or buying a new vehicle. With many new vehicles now featuring tire pressure monitoring systems (TPM), using Nitrogen could reduce false error messages or warning lights coming on by keeping tire pressure more consistent. Tire pressures will still vary some when taking a long trip, but you want to make sure that all four tires have either Nitrogen or air to keep from confusing the system. Since you can’t see what’s in your tires, be sure to use a reputable tire store or service provider or else cool green valve caps may be all you get for your money.
For more information see http://getnitrogen.org/
When it comes to lubricants there are many choices to make and a bunch of potential mistakes to make. Some under-hood chemicals are color coded. Transmission fluid is typically red or pink; coolant is either green or orange, washer solvent is blue. Unfortunately, motor oil, brake fluid and power steering fluid are all a honey-gold color so you have to be careful with what you’re pouring.
Brake fluid is arguably the most critical oil used in the vehicle. It is engineered for a very specific purpose and is hydroscopic. This means that is attracts and disperses moisture. To you, this means that if the bottle’s not sealed properly, it becomes contaminated with moisture from the air.
I do not keep brake fluid in my garage. For one thing, brake fluid is not a consumed liquid. For various reasons, including leakage, your car may consume some engine oil, coolant, etc but the brake system is sealed so that the level in the reservoir diminishes as the brake shoes or pads wear out, but when the shoes or pads are replaced, the fluid goes back to its original level. Unless there is a catastrophic failure, the brake fluid should never leave the system. Second, it gets old and I’d rather be low on good brake fluid than fill the system with bad brake fluid. Third, it is highly corrosive. If you spill brake fluid on any painted surface – including your car, garage floor, kid’s bike – it will cause the finish to blister and peel.
Gone are the days when you could interchange power steering fluid with transmission fluid and other nonsense like that. I once had a customer top off his brake system with power steering fluid. $3000 later, he ended up with a whole new anti-lock brake system complete with fresh fluid.
Sulfuric acid is the fluid that lives in your car’s battery. If you see corrosion or a white flakey, powdery substance below the battery, chances are it’s leaking. Dont touch it. Have it checked and replaced immediately. Last but not least is washer solvent. It’s the cheapest fluid under the hood – usually $1 or so per gallon. Yet people don’t feel that it’s necessary and so they fill the washer tank with water. The temperature under the hood is over 100 degrees so the water gets moldy, clogs the spray nozzles, causes the pump to fail, and you end up with a $90 repair bill that could easily and cheaply have been avoided. Or if you live where there is winter, the water freezes in the bottle overnight, expands and cracks it. This could easily be a $100 mistake. Don’t be penny-wise and dollar-foolish. Consult your owner’s manual and use the proper fluids for the jobs they were intended to do.
Noises – and the art of getting them fixed
There are many different sounds that are naturally produced and normal for the average vehicle. After all, several thousand moving parts all rubbing against each other are bound to produce sound – but there is a difference between a sound and a noise. It also stands to reason that the normal sound of a four-wheel drive diesel truck is dramatically different from the normal sound of a Cadillac STS. The more moving parts (such as 4wd) the greater propensity for sound. The more insulation (such as in the STS) the lower the volume will be.
When you’re first introduced to a vehicle, everything is a noise. After a few hundred miles you begin to accept the normal sounds inherent to the vehicle and can pick out a true noise. But addressing the noise(s) with your dealer is where the real challenge lies.
The best way to get a noise fixed is to provide the best possible description of it. Not only “It sounds like zip-pop-buzz…” but more like “when I first start the car in the morning, and back out of my driveway with my foot lightly on the brake, I hear…”. Anything can make a zip-pop-buzz noise, but if you hear it first thing in the morning, on the first brake application, it’s very likely caused by the Anti-Lock Brake system performing a self-diagnostic test. By the way, this is a normal sound.
The point is that describing the noise itself is not always as valuable as describing the conditions under which it occurs. Is the engine cold or at normal operating temperature? Are you accelerating, cruising or slowing down? How fast are you going? Is the air conditioning on or off? Is your foot on the brake? Are the windows open or closed? Then consider external factors. Is it hot or cold outside? Are the roads wet, smooth, rough, paved, gravel, etc? Last consider operating conditions. Is the sound louder with the window open? When did it start occurring? Did you recently have any work performed? Does it always seem to occur on the same road or same stretch of road? Is it most prevalent at any given speed?
There’s also a difference between a squeak a squeal and a whistle; a knock a rattle and a clunk. Describe the sound as well as the conditions under which you hear it as best possible – don’t be vague thinking that they will just listen for everything and anything – that strategy usually doesn’t work. BACK
Every new vehicle warranty commits to addressing defects in material or workmanship. This is the manufacturer’s way of promoting quality in their product. They stand behind it, so it must be made well. Elsewhere in your warranty booklet you will find an area titled “what is not covered.” Here, they generally describe the conditions in which the warranty plays no role. If a vehicle is neglected, abused, damaged, or used in a fashion for which it was not intended, the warranty may be compromised or voided. This generally includes racing, extreme off road use, overloading or exceeding the towing capacity.
So if for example, while driving down the road a stone hits your windshield and cracks it - that is not a warrantable condition. If you go to pull into your driveway, and as you’re turning and going over the curb the windshield cracks – that is a warrantable failure. What’s the difference? In the first scenario there was an external influence that neither the manufacturer, nor you, could control – the stone. In the second instance, the vehicle was being used as intended, yet the failure occurred without external influence. Therefore, either a flaw in the glass or improper installation is the most likely cause of the failure.
One more – you decided to boycott the local car wash for unfair labor practices. After two years they unionize, so you reestablish a relationship and have them remove the accumulated road grime, tar, bird droppings and the insect graveyard from your vehicle. Once completed you notice that the paint is stained, blistered, faded and peeling. No big surprise, and no warranty coverage either. This is a case of neglect.
These are relatively cut and dry examples. Most times there are grey areas that become the real issue – such as racing is prohibited yet the Corvette is marketed as a sports car which can attain speeds well in excess of 100 mph. Similarly, four wheel drive trucks are intended for off road use but, if the truck is buried in two feet of mud, whose fault is that?
If you should find yourself in a situation where you are told that a repair cannot be covered under the terms of the warranty, and you are not agreeable to their explanation of why, try contacting your insurance agent. If there was a stone that cracked your windshield, there will be evidence of the impact and your automobile insurance will likely cover it. If not, call customer assistance - even if it's not a factory defect, the manufacturer may assist you as a goodwill gesture.
Women sometimes feel defensive, apprehensive and even intimidated by having to bring their car or truck in for repairs. Purchasing a new or used vehicle can be twice as bad. Here are a few strategies to try that will help you gain the respect you deserve.
First, as with choosing any retailer or service provider from plumbers to doctors, ask friends and relatives for referrals and then build a rapport. If I went to my doctor with an earache and he told me I need my spleen removed, I’d believe him. If you bring your car to your mechanic with a dead battery and they tell you it needs an expensive electronic brake module that’s causing the battery to drain overnight, you have to believe him. Of course trust has to be earned, so choosing a reputable repair shop or dealership is just the beginning. You then need to patronize them for not only repairs, but for oil changes, tire rotations, and other common maintenance items. After all, you probably first visited your doctor with cold or flu symptoms or aches and pains – not because you suspected internal bleeding, a brain tumor or a ruptured spleen.
You will gain confidence in them with every oil change, and they will value and respect you as a steady customer. Most businesses realize that they spend lots of money advertising to gain new customers. Once you have a customer, it makes good sense to try to keep her, or him, rather than lose them and then spend more money to replace them.
To avoid feeling defensive dealing with the male dominated automotive field, do some homework. Knowledge is power and the internet is a valuable educational tool. Links listed on this website can help you.
If you’re looking to buy a car, there are several sites that will help you choose which models will suite your needs and let you compare features side by side. Sites like Kelly Blue Book www.kbb.com and Edmunds www.edmunds.com offer pricing, ratings and even independent reviews of all types of new and used cars and trucks.
If your facing a repair issue, a google search of the symptom, make and model can provide results that will help give you an idea of what your facing. Now, when you get to the repair shop you’ll be better able to describe the condition – what the noise sounds like, when the vibration is felt, etc. Also, you’ll have an idea of what’s involved in repairing the problem. If it’s a common concern, which many concerns are, you’ll be a more educated consumer and feel more confident about bringing the car in, more assured that the repairs will be effective and that you’re paying a reasonable price. In some cases common concerns may be covered under warranty or recall coverage – call the manufacturer for clarification.
For added peace of mind, ask for a written estimate before any repairs are performed and ask for the old parts back. These are steps that warranty companies take to help ensure that they are not exploited. You should do the same.
Anytime it rained, snowed, or just got dark drivers everywhere would reach out their left hand and pull a knob out of the dashboard to turn on the headlights. Today, that’s a nostalgic memory rather than a reality for most 21st century drivers. The headlight switch is one of the last things new drivers may become familiar with thanks to the popularity of automatic headlights. Auto-headlights did to the headlight switch what remote keyless entry did to the door key – practically made it extinct.
There are a few things you should know about headlights even if they do come on by themselves. The most common headlamp design used today is a “capsule” which is a plastic unit shaped to meet the contour of the fender, hood or grill. The capsule contains the lens, mounting tabs and a removable headlamp bulb. The bulbs are most commonly referred to as “Halogens” because of the halogen gas contained within the bulb to keep the filament cool. Halogens are a big improvement over the earlier style “Sealed Beam” headlights. A sealed beam is nothing more than a big light bulb. Either large or small, round or rectangular, sealed beams are made of one big piece of glass. The original sealed beam lights were not very bright. Compared to a halogen headlight, they appear yellow. Today there are halogen sealed beams which are a kind of hybrid – still made of glass, round or square but with a halogen bulb sealed within the unit.
Those really bright headlights you may notice on Cadillacs and such are known as High Intensity Discharge (HID) lights. Aside from being very bright, they don’t always last very long, and are very expensive (up to $300 each) to replace. By the way, extended warranties still consider them bulbs and don’t cover them. But if you live in an area where exceptionally bright headlamps are a safety factor, these are the lights to have.
If you live and primarily drive in a big city, there is typically enough street lighting to negate the advantages of expensive headlights. But, if you live or often drive in suburban or rural areas, a little extra light can make a big difference. I recently replaced the standard halogen bulbs in my Saturn with aftermarket Sylvania bulbs and the difference is amazing. Again, I was warned that the brighter bulbs have a shorter life expectancy and one of them did burn out after only one month. The good news is that when I contacted Sylvania about it they gladly sent me a replacement.
A common malady of capsulated headlights is that the lens tends to get foggy or cloudy after a few years. I have yet to discover a way of preventing this, but there are several products on the market that claim to be able to clear the cloudy lens. There are also service companies that specialize in restoring lenses. The capsules are expensive to replace but ask your service center for their opinion and a referral before replacing the capsules. If they can recommend a reputable agency to restore the lenses, you can save a lot of money, but be sure to get a written guaranty that the process will last at least a year or two.
One change that the new millennium provided was the deletion of a familiar item on all cars. Although you may still be able to order a vehicle with an ashtray, cigarette lighter or a full size spare, the passenger door lock cylinder is one old familiar feature that is definitely a thing of the past.
With the advent of secure and reliable remote keyless entry systems, it was discovered that hardly anyone ever actually used the passenger side door lock. If no one’s using it, manufacturers are quick to remove it.
This is not limited to GM vehicles either. Walking through a parking lot I noticed that Toyota, Nissan, Honda, and even BMW and Acura have made the same decision to delete the unused feature.
For some 20 years I have heard people complain that their [ fill in the blank ] has Never been able to get the mileage the manufacturer and salesman promised. Well, of course not. If you’ve read my trade tip #26 on Tips of the Trade you’d know that neither the manufacturer nor the dealer came up with those mileage figures – it was the Federal Government!
In 2007 things began to change. The EPA modified the test procedures for determining the average city and highway mileage figures. The test vehicles are still run under controlled conditions to allow for valid comparisons, but those conditions have been modified. They now include aggressive acceleration, high speed freeway driving, use of the vehicle’s air conditioning system and even a 20 degree cold start simulation.
Simulating more realistic driving conditions had the expected effect – the EPA mileage ratings went down - typically from 2 to 10 miles per gallon. Hardest hit appears to have been the long overrated hybrids.
There is no mention of which makes or models that neither faired best or worst nor was there an average adjustment mentioned in the research I performed. For more information check out the data and a video at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/ratings2008.shtml .
Here’s something else for you to consider… a Boeing 737 burns approximately 1,000 to 2,000 gallons of aviation fuel per hour. That’s about 25 gallons (more than the average automotive gas tank capacity) per MINUTE.
Who monitors the exhaust emissions and efficiency of airplanes?
It’s time to take off the snow tires and wash the salt out of the fenders. Even if you don’t have to deal with such things, there are maintenance items that everyone should practice to get their car ready for summer.
If you live in an area of the country that gets cold and salt is used to keep the roads clear of ice, it is vitally important to ensure that no remnants of salt remain on your vehicle. Salt is highly corrosive and although manufacturers are using more man-made and galvanized parts, salt will cause any bare metal parts of your vehicle to rust away. Wash the car off from above and below. Many automated car washes offer an undercarriage wash which greatly helps to remove residual salt that may be trapped in nooks and crannies that would otherwise harbor the corrosive.
Protect the paint by applying a fresh coat of good quality wax. Wax helps to preserve the paint finish by providing a protective layer that keeps bugs, grime and dirt from sticking to the paint and also offers protection from the uv rays of the sun.
Get the oil changed, tires rotated and be sure to have the service agent check the coolant. Coolant is not just antifreeze – it also raises the boiling point of water it’s mixed with to keep your engine from overheating. Also, check the wiper blades since April showers also tend to bring work to the body shops.
Last, if your air conditioner has taken on a musty or moldy smell, ask you service agent about disinfecting the a/c system. There are several products available that work very well at killing the mold that often grows in the car’s ventilation unit.
As usual, make sure all the lights are working, the fluids are full and there’s air in the spare
